The Rough Guide to Hong Kong & Macau

Introduction

Hong Kong is a beguiling place to visit: a land whose aggressive capitalist instinct is tempered by an oriental concern with order and harmony. Indeed, whatever you've heard about it, the most important thing to remember is that, despite 150 years of British colonial rule and the modern city's cosmopolitan veneer, Hong Kong is, and always has been, Chinese. The glittering skyline imitates others throughout the world; the largest department stores are Japanese-owned; you can take English high tea to the accompaniment of a string quartet; there's cricket and horse-racing, pubs and cocktail lounges. But for most of the Chinese locals - 98 percent of a population of almost seven million - life still follows a pattern that many mainland Chinese would recognize as their own: hard work and cramped housing; food bought from teeming markets and street stalls; and a polytheistic religion celebrated in the home, in smoky temples, and during exuberant festivals.

Recent years, however, have been far from easy for Hong Kong. The enormous political upheaval that accompanied the handing back of the territory to China in 1997 was followed almost immediately by the Asian economic crisis, during which stockmarket and property markets collapsed and unemployment reached its highest levels for 25 years. And though fears that the Chinese government would interfere in the running of Hong Kong after the British left have proved to be generally unfounded, they have been replaced by concerns that the territory's own leadership lacks the experience necessary to run such a sophisticated and fast-changing society, with local officials trying to second-guess the wishes of Beijing.

Even so, visitors to Hong Kong will find that little has changed - superficially at least - since the handover. Many practical matters, such as entry requirements, have remained unaffected, and the city has lost none of its interest: the architecture is an engaging mix of styles, from the stunning towers of Central to ramshackle town housing and centuries-old Chinese temples; the markets and streetlife are compelling; while the shopping - if no longer the bargain it once was - is eclectic, from open-air stalls to hi-tech malls. Hong Kong is also one of the best places in the world to eat Chinese food (and a good many other cuisines besides), while the territory's Western influence has left in a plentiful selection of bars and nightspots. If there's a downside, it's that commercialism and consumption tend to dominate life. Cultural matters have been less well catered for, though a superb Cultural Centre, several new or improved museums, and an increasing awareness of the arts - both Chinese and Western - are beginning to change that.

Sixty kilometres west across the Pearl River estuary, Macau (due to be returned to China in December 1999) makes Hong Kong look like the gaudy arriviste colony it is. In 1557, almost three hundred years before the British arrived in southern China, the Portuguese set up base here, and although Hong Kong and its harbour later surpassed the older enclave in terms of trading importance, Macau absorbed its Portuguese associations and culture in a way that Hong Kong never did with Britain. Smaller and more immediately attractive than its neighbour, Macau remains a pleasant contrast to the madness across the water in Hong Kong. It's one of Asia's most enjoyable spots for a short visit, its Chinese life tempered by an almost Mediterranean influence, manifest in the ageing Catholic churches, hilltop fortresses and a grand seafront promenade. Of course, like Hong Kong, Macau is Chinese - 95 percent of its population speak Cantonese. All the temples and festivals of southern China are reproduced here, but few come to Macau to pursue them, believing - perhaps rightly - that such things are done bigger and better in Hong Kong. Instead, Macau offers alternative attractions. Eating here is one of the highlights of any trip to the region - even on a short visit to Hong Kong it's worth taking the jetfoil over for a meal: Macanese food is an exciting combination of Portuguese colonial cooking, with dishes and ingredients taken from Portugal itself, Goa, Brazil, Africa and China, washed down with cheap, imported Portuguese wine, port and brandy. And with gambling illegal in Hong Kong, except for betting on horse-races, the Hong Kong Chinese look to Macau's various casinos to satisfy their almost obsessive desire to dice with fortune.